Aviva Directory » Arts & Literature » Crafts » Leathercraft

The focus of this part of our guide is on leathercraft, which may include the actual production of leather from animal skins and hides to crafting products out of leather.

At its core, leathercraft involves the transformation of animal skins and hides into supple, durable leather, which is shaped by craftspeople into functional and decorative items.

Generally, the term "leathercraft" is used to describe the process of turning leather into a finished product because most craftspeople don't produce the leather that they use. Some do, however.

Animal byproducts from livestock farms, slaughterhouses, and game processors provide the raw material for leather. Selecting the right hide depends on size, thickness, and grain characteristics. Cow and steer hides are robust and available in varied thicknesses, while calfskins have a finer grain and a softer feel, and goat and sheep skins are lightweight and supple.

Preservation and curing involve salting (to remove moisture and inhibit bacterial growth), drying (air-drying of controlled dehydration), and refrigeration (for short-term storage for immediate processing.

Tanning stabilizes collagen fibers, preventing decomposition and creating lasting leather. Modern tanneries often combine chemical and vegetable techniques to balance durability and environmental impact. Preliminary preparation includes soaking (rehydrating hides in water with mild detergents), liming (removing hair and epidermal layers using lime and enzymes), and deliming and bating (adjusting pH and softening the pelt).

Tanning methods include vegetable tanning, chrome tanning, and synthetic and aldehyde tanning. Vegetable tanning utilizes tannin-rich plant extracts, such as oak bark. It yields firm, ecologically minded leather ideal for tooling and saddlery. Chrome tanning employs chromium salts, producing flexible, water-resistant leather suited for apparel and upholstery. Synthetic and aldehyde tanning uses glutaraldehyde or other synthetics, offering specific performance traits like washability or hypoallergenic properties.

Post-tanning operations include neutralization to balance pH levels, retanning to refine color and feel, dyeing to penetrate fibers for uniform coloration, and fatliquoring to reintroduce oils for softness.

Finishing imparts aesthetic appeal and functional properties, such as water resistance or shine. Surface treatments include full aniline (transparent dyes to highlight natural grain), semi-aniline (light pigment coats enhance uniformity), pigmented (heavy coatings protect against stains and abrasion), and embossing (heat-pressed patterns simulate exotic skins). Each hide is graded by thickness, blemishes, and consistency. Higher grades fetch premium prices and suit visible premium products.

Turning leather into products demands careful planning, precise execution, and a deep understanding of material behavior. Common steps include design and pattern making, cutting and preparation, assembly and stitching, and edge finishing and conditioning.

In the design and pattern making phase, the crafter might sketch functional prototypes, develop paper patterns accounting for stretch and thickness, or digitize patterns for repeatability. In the cutting and preparation phase, the crafter will use rotary cutters, knives, or clickers for clean edges, mark stitch lines, fold lines, and hardware placements, and apply edge coat or burnish areas to minimize fraying. Assembly and stitching involve edge beveling to round off corners, stitching (hand-sewn with saddle stitching for strength or machine-stitched on industrial or home sewing machines), and hardware installation, such as rivets, snaps, and buckles. Edge finishing and conditioning includes burnishing (friction-polishing edges with beeswax or gum tragacanth), dyes, and top coats (to seal edges to prevent moisture absorption), and conditioners (to nourish leather to maintain flexibility).

Leatherwork relies on specialized tools that ensure precision and quality, such as cutting tools (utility knives, rotary cutters, and strap cutters), stitching tools (needles, awls, and stitching pony), measuring and marking tools (rulers, wing dividers, and scratch awls), edge tools (bevelers, burnishers, and edge slickers), and hardware setters (rivet presses, mallets, and hole punches).

Popular leather products include, but are not limited to, wallets (calfskin), belts (steer hide), bags and purses (cowhide), and footwear (calfskin or cowhide).

 

 

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