The heart of this part of our web guide is on artisan soapmaking, the craft of blending natural oils, lye, and botanicals into unique, hand-poured bars that cleanse, nourish, and often tell a sensory story through scent, texture, and design.
Long before "small-batch" was a buzzword, people were rendering fats and mixing them with ash-derived alkalis to lift dirt from skin and cloth. Ancient civilizations discovered that the slippery byproduct of cooking fats with ash cleansed remarkably well, and over the centuries, the techniques were improved upon.
Mediterranean traditions gave us olive oil-based Castile soaps prized for their mild lather. Northern climates leaned into animal tallow for firm, long-lasting bars. By the 19th century, scientific understanding of saponification (the reaction that turns fats and alkali into soap and glycerin) transformed soap from a variable household craft into a predictable product. The 20th century brought detergent and mass production, but it also spawned a counterpart: makers returning to simple ingredients, regional oils, and creative forms. Today's artisan movement stems from that lineage.
Soapmaking is the saponification of fats with a strong alkali. In the artisan world, makers typically work in three modes: cold process (from-scratch chemistry and slow cure), hot process (accelerated cook with a rustic finish), and melt-and-pour (pre-saponified bases sculpted into designs).
Cold process is the most nuanced, and generally follows the following steps: 1) Planning: Choosing the oils and butters for hardness, cleansing, lather, and conditioning. Olive softens, coconut cleanses and hardens, shea conditions, and balance is the key. Makers often "superfat" (reserve a small percentage of unsaponified oils) for extra emollience. 2) Safety: Lye (sodium hydroxide for bars, potassium hydroxide for liquid) is caustic, so eye protection, gloves, sleeves, good ventilation, and focus are required. Children and pets should be kept out of the space. 3) Mix the Lye: Dissolve lye in distilled water by slowly sprinkling lye into water (do not add water to lye) to better manage heat and splatter. Cool both the lye solution and oils to compatible temperatures before combining. 4) Emulsify: Blend oils and lye solution until the mixture thickens to "trace," when drips briefly sit on the surface. This is the window for artistry, the period in which portions can be divided for colors, scent can be added, and swirls or layers can be set up. 5) Design and Pour: Incorporate pigments (micas, clays, botanicals) and fragrance or essential oils at safe usage rates. Pour into molds; execute techniques like in-the-pot swirls, drop swirls, or layered bands. Insulate to encourage even saponification if desired. 6) Saponify and Cure: Unmold and cut within 12-48 hours, depending on hardness. Cure bars in a well-ventilated space for several weeks so water evaporates and the bar becomes milder, harder, and longer-lasting.
Two principles anchor the process of making soap: precision (accurate measurements, tested usage rates) and respect for the materials (safe handling, patience with curing).
The most successful soapmaking artisans create products that have a recognizable style. The choices that the artisan makes at every step contribute to their signature style.
Olive, coconut, and palm once formed the classic "trinity," but many artisans go palm-free or use certified sources. Shea, cocoa, mango butter, rice bran, avocado, sunflower, and lard or tallow each bring distinct hardness, lather type, and skin feel characteristics.
Goat's milk, oat, honey, aloe, and silk add creaminess or slip. Salt bars feel glassy and produce a lush, low-bubble lather, while sugar or sorbitol can boost bubbles. Botanicals like calendula petals, indigo, madder, annatto, and charcoal create color without synthetic dyes.
Essential oils offer natural complexity and volatility. Fragrance oils deliver consistency and range. Many makers blend both approaches across collections, keeping within safe dermal limits and disclosing allergens.
From minimalist, uncolored bars to vivid marbling, techniques like hanger swirls, Taiwan swirls, pencil lines, and embeds turn each loaf into a canvas. Titanium dioxide brightens, while clays mute to earth tones, and micas shimmer.
A four-to-six-week cure is common, but some makers extend cures for specific formulas, trading time for a milder bar and longer shower life. This patience can become part of the brand's feel.
The field of artisan soapmaking is shaped by values, aesthetics, and practical skin needs. Concerns include sustainability and sourcing, short, legible ingredient lists, skin sensitivity, and artistry in soapmaking. Regionally-sourced ingredients are prized, and collaborations with florists can help to add profitability to the craft.
 
 
Recommended Resources
Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetic Guild
Founded in 1998, the HSCG traces its roots to a small group of enterprising soapmakers who gathered at the Woodspirits Farm in Ohio. They formed the Handcrafted Soapmakers Guild, which expanded to include cosmetics in 2013 and to include candlemakers in 2022. The Guild operates a certification program that promotes professional standards among HSCG members and includes Basic, Advanced, Expert, and Master certifications. Member benefits, event schedules, and member showcases are available.
https://www.soapguild.org/
This dedicated blog and resource hub is for learning how to create natural, handcrafted soap. Key offerings include a free soapmaking guide, e-books covering techniques, design, and business tips, along with a soap-making batch journal in PDF format, a business planner with a calendar, goal-setting forms, and a mindfulness tracker. Online classes on lotion making, transparent soap, piping techniques, and other soap-making subjects are also available. Articles cover various topics on soapmaking.
https://lovinsoap.com/
Making Soap, Cosmetics & Candles
Launched as "The Saponifier" in 1998, the trade publication took its current name in 2016 and is dedicated to handcrafted soapmakers, formulators, and small-batch bath and body artisans. It offers in-depth tutorials, business insights, and industry news to help makers stay current with trends, improve their skills, and grow their ventures. Direct subscriptions (print and digital) are available on the website, and back issues may be purchased online in PDF format.
https://www.makingsoapmag.com/
Celebrating the craft and community of handmade soapmaking, National Soapmaking Day falls on the last Sunday of September each year, offering an annual opportunity for beginners and veterans alike to melt, pour, and saponify in unison. Begun at the Soapmaking Studio in 2017, the holiday was registered by Keri Mixon, who navigated the process of official recognition. Tips on celebrating the day are featured, along with featured soapmakers, proclamations, and awards.
http://nationalsoapmakingday.org/
The official blog of Bramble Berry, a Pacific Northwest-based supplier of soapmaking supplies, Soap Queen features detailed, step-by-step tutorials on everything from cold process soaps to bath fizzies, melt and pour soap, soaks and scrubs, lotion, lip products, and home crafts. Tutorials may be found by subject, through keyword search, or by difficulty level (beginner, intermediate, advanced). Tips and tricks are presented, along with business information, and an overview of Bramble Berry.
https://soapqueen.com/
This is an active, member-driven, online discussion forum dedicated to soap and candle crafting. The message board brings hobbyists and professionals together to share recipes, techniques, troubleshooting tips, and inspiration. Key sections include a beginner's soap-making forum, a lye-based soap forum, a melt-and-pour forum, a liquid soap and cream soap forum, a bath and body forum, a candle-making forum, fragrance oils and essential oils, and other DIY projects.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/
The cloud-based, all-in-one platform is designed to help soapmakers, from hobbyists to professionals, develop recipes, calculate lye amounts, manage inventory, track batches, and analyze costs. It also fosters community interaction through discussion forums and recipe sharing. Key features include a smart recipe builder, batch management, inventory and supplier tracking, and community support. Pricing plans, options, upgrades, and instructions are presented.
https://www.soapmakingfriend.com/