Aviva Directory » Arts & Literature » Crafts » Soapmaking

The heart of this part of our web guide is on artisan soapmaking, the craft of blending natural oils, lye, and botanicals into unique, hand-poured bars that cleanse, nourish, and often tell a sensory story through scent, texture, and design.

Long before "small-batch" was a buzzword, people were rendering fats and mixing them with ash-derived alkalis to lift dirt from skin and cloth. Ancient civilizations discovered that the slippery byproduct of cooking fats with ash cleansed remarkably well, and over the centuries, the techniques were improved upon.

Mediterranean traditions gave us olive oil-based Castile soaps prized for their mild lather. Northern climates leaned into animal tallow for firm, long-lasting bars. By the 19th century, scientific understanding of saponification (the reaction that turns fats and alkali into soap and glycerin) transformed soap from a variable household craft into a predictable product. The 20th century brought detergent and mass production, but it also spawned a counterpart: makers returning to simple ingredients, regional oils, and creative forms. Today's artisan movement stems from that lineage.

Soapmaking is the saponification of fats with a strong alkali. In the artisan world, makers typically work in three modes: cold process (from-scratch chemistry and slow cure), hot process (accelerated cook with a rustic finish), and melt-and-pour (pre-saponified bases sculpted into designs).

Cold process is the most nuanced, and generally follows the following steps: 1) Planning: Choosing the oils and butters for hardness, cleansing, lather, and conditioning. Olive softens, coconut cleanses and hardens, shea conditions, and balance is the key. Makers often "superfat" (reserve a small percentage of unsaponified oils) for extra emollience. 2) Safety: Lye (sodium hydroxide for bars, potassium hydroxide for liquid) is caustic, so eye protection, gloves, sleeves, good ventilation, and focus are required. Children and pets should be kept out of the space. 3) Mix the Lye: Dissolve lye in distilled water by slowly sprinkling lye into water (do not add water to lye) to better manage heat and splatter. Cool both the lye solution and oils to compatible temperatures before combining. 4) Emulsify: Blend oils and lye solution until the mixture thickens to "trace," when drips briefly sit on the surface. This is the window for artistry, the period in which portions can be divided for colors, scent can be added, and swirls or layers can be set up. 5) Design and Pour: Incorporate pigments (micas, clays, botanicals) and fragrance or essential oils at safe usage rates. Pour into molds; execute techniques like in-the-pot swirls, drop swirls, or layered bands. Insulate to encourage even saponification if desired. 6) Saponify and Cure: Unmold and cut within 12-48 hours, depending on hardness. Cure bars in a well-ventilated space for several weeks so water evaporates and the bar becomes milder, harder, and longer-lasting.

Two principles anchor the process of making soap: precision (accurate measurements, tested usage rates) and respect for the materials (safe handling, patience with curing).

The most successful soapmaking artisans create products that have a recognizable style. The choices that the artisan makes at every step contribute to their signature style.

Olive, coconut, and palm once formed the classic "trinity," but many artisans go palm-free or use certified sources. Shea, cocoa, mango butter, rice bran, avocado, sunflower, and lard or tallow each bring distinct hardness, lather type, and skin feel characteristics.

Goat's milk, oat, honey, aloe, and silk add creaminess or slip. Salt bars feel glassy and produce a lush, low-bubble lather, while sugar or sorbitol can boost bubbles. Botanicals like calendula petals, indigo, madder, annatto, and charcoal create color without synthetic dyes.

Essential oils offer natural complexity and volatility. Fragrance oils deliver consistency and range. Many makers blend both approaches across collections, keeping within safe dermal limits and disclosing allergens.

From minimalist, uncolored bars to vivid marbling, techniques like hanger swirls, Taiwan swirls, pencil lines, and embeds turn each loaf into a canvas. Titanium dioxide brightens, while clays mute to earth tones, and micas shimmer.

A four-to-six-week cure is common, but some makers extend cures for specific formulas, trading time for a milder bar and longer shower life. This patience can become part of the brand's feel.

The field of artisan soapmaking is shaped by values, aesthetics, and practical skin needs. Concerns include sustainability and sourcing, short, legible ingredient lists, skin sensitivity, and artistry in soapmaking. Regionally-sourced ingredients are prized, and collaborations with florists can help to add profitability to the craft.

 

 

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